The Jeep Wrangler YJ was introduced in 1987. In 1988 some minor changes were made including the way the upper half doors attached to the lower half doors. Little changed for Wrangler YJ jeep parts in model years 1989 and 1990. Starting in 1991, the 4.2 liter in-line 6 cylinder engine was upgraded to the fuel injected 4.0 Liter High Output engine which remained in Jeep Wranglers for the next 15 years. In 1992, the classic roll bar was changed to the more elaborate cage which provided the Jeep Wrangler YJ rear passengers with greater protection. With the exception of minor interior and trim details, Wrangler YJ Jeep parts remained unchanged in model years 1993, 1994 and its final production year 1995.
|1989 YJ Wrangler (1/22/89)|
|No Air Conditioning|
|Wieght = 3000 lbs(S10 = 4500 lbs)|
Body Code Plate
CFM CKC KWX K3Z END 127 FP040901 VJS YJJE77 APA PE3 QE3 P6SA EPD DDQ U 2J4FY19E2KJ129902
Vehicle Order # : 127-FP040901
Vinyl Roof Code : VJS
Vehicle Model #: YJJE77
Paint Proceedure: APA
Primary Paint # : PE3
Secondary paint :QE3
Transmission Code: DDQ
Market U-C-B-M Code: U
2.5 L 4 cylinder
Manual 5 spd (AX4/5 )
Rebuild transmission at transmission city for $700 on 11/2011. Used 20W50 motor oil in AX5 transmission and 8fl oz of Lube Guard gear fluid supplement .
Rear Axle (Dana 35) Tag:
Front Axle (Dana 30)Tag:
Transfer Case NP231
- 15 x 7
- P235/75 R15 => 28.87" diameter and 9.25" tread width
Tire -> flair distance with P235/75 tires
Front axle - flare distance = 17"
Rear axle -> flare distance = 18.5"
Prices Good Average Poor Wrangler 6-cyl. $2,600-3,200 $1,900-2,400 $500-700 Wrangler S 4-cyl. $2,000-2,500 $1,400-1,800 $300-400
- 1987-1995 Jeep Wrangler YJ
Vision X Off Road just released another new LED light product: a
5" x 6" x 5" Al bumper
= 0.097 lbs/cu in
=0.28 lbs/ cu in
16" x 0.25" x 60" = 240 cu in
M = 0.091 x 240 = 24 lbs
EXT Series Swing-Away Bumper, 87-06 YJ/TJ/Unl Wrangler (Has attachment for HiLift jack)
Jeep rock crawler rear bumper CJ YJ TJ Wrangler
Tire carrier for bumper
LED tail light will use less electricity than lumi
5 spd knob:
Installing fiberglass upper half doors
Bull Dawg Manufacturing ($610)(ph:423-400-7517)
Permatex Vinyl & Leather Repair Kit (Item # 81781) http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81781-Ultra-Leather-Repair/dp/B0007TQWK6
Windshield side retainers
Sunrider Soft Top
Body Mount bushings
Springs and bushings
Poly bushings not recommended by one Forum member due to vibration translating up steering column
http://www.4wd.com/hardparts/HP_PartList.aspx?hpDID=114 Front $85 Rear $88
http://www.acmejeepparts.com/products/56010_08.htm Front 4 leaf $105
http://www.acmejeepparts.com/products/56010_09.htm Rear 4 leaf $93
Add a Leaf kit
I don't know how much lift you're seeking, but stock springs are plentiful and cheap. Places besides the dealer sell them new too. My big beefs with the stock springs are the restrictive clamps and the too-soft rate when loaded down. I had the same softness problem with my RE ED 2.5" springs, until I added extra full-length leaves. They still flex like a yoga master, but that setup may provide too much lift for your SOA application. Any spring will eventually need replacement. Did you want stock-height or lift springs? Custom springs cost more but can be made for individual applications. OME, National, and Alcan have good reps. BDS has a lifetime warranty. Some companies make springs in minimal 1-1.5" lift height (Rancho, RE, etc). Unless you go with some exotic material ('glass, boron, graphite, etc.) and not spring-steel, look for tapered-leaf, pre-stressed, shot-peened springs, with anti-friction pads between the MANY leaves and bolt-style clamps. Some people like military-wraps, but I usually cut them off to allow more droop. Some ways to make leafpacks last longer usually involve stressing them less, but who wants to park their Jeep on a hydraulic lift and leave it? - Try longer, staged, poly bumpstops that don't allow negative arching. Droop is where you want to get your best flex from anyway. - Use greasable bushings and keep them well-lubed. - Do NOT overtighten the bushing bolts. Tighten just enough to eliminate play. Too-tight bushings over-stress the mainleaves and hurt ride/flex. - Use overload leaves and anti-wrap devices like links, long axle seats, or short soft leaves on top. Properly set center-mounted links generally don't hinder droop when articulating as much as the other anti-wrap methods mentioned. - Use a center-mounted airbag between the diff and the frame when loaded heavily. It won't hurt articulation much, but will help handle weight. - Use revolver shackles and either z-boxes or football-shaped bushings to relieve some torsional stress on the springs. - Make sure your shocks perform well. - Run lightweight wheel assemblies and don't over-inflate your tires. - Go easy on the gas pedal. - Shave weight from the Jeep wherever practical and safe. - Use lockers at both ends and don't worry about having mondo flex.
Torque arm grommet
These grommets go on a bolt between the cross member and the transfer case right next to the transmission mount
Changing Transmission oil
AX15 swapped with NV3550
- the NV4500 has a place for a PTO (Power Take Off), you can use it to run a winch.
It’s often cheaper to swap in a NV4500 into a Jeep instead of rebuilding the problematic factory Jeep transmission. PLUS, it's an easy swap when you use a Dodge version of the NV4500 transmission, because all that’s needed is a bellhousing adapter plate. Additionally, on Dana 300 applications the Dodge version is preferable because the adapter requires a Dodge output shaft, and utilizes a stock Dodge 4x4 tail housing. The stock 23-spline input gear for the Dana 300 is retained, and the tail housing bolts directly to the mounting face of the Dana 300 transfer case.
Transm + Adapter
Adapter Only http://www.quadratec.com/products/52158_201.htm
Advanced Adapters (http://www.advanceadapters.com/acrobat/jpretrofits.pdf)
NV4500 (1993-94): During the first two years of the New Venture 4500, Chevy offered this 5 speed with a 6.34:1 1st gear; 2nd 3.44:1; 3rd 1.71:1; 4th 1:1 ratio, and a 27% overdrive. It was also the first year that Chevy changed the bellhousing-to-transmission bolt pattern. This transmission is ideal when converting your vehicle, providing an ultra-low 1st gear. GM, however, only produced this particular ratio during these years. The major complaint of this 5 speed was stiff shifting and noise in 3rd gear.
NV4500 (1995): This transmission is identical to the 1993-94 transmission, except the 1st gear ratio had been changed to 5.61:1; 2nd 3.04:1; 3rd 1.67:1; 4th 1:1 ratio, and a 27% overdrive. The noise and shifting problems had been corrected.
NV4500 (1996-2003): This transmission has the same gear ratio as the 1995 version. Chevy once again changed the bellhousing-to-transmission bolt pattern and went to a larger bellhousing index diameter. This Chevy NV4500 has the same bellhousing-to-transmission bolt pattern as the Dodge NV4500. These transmissions use a GM internal release bearing.
Dodge NV4500 (1993-2003): This transmission is the same as the 1996-99 Chevy version; however, the only difference is the transmission input shaft, output shaft, and the tailhousing. The 2001 & up Dodge transmission was changed to a 29 spline output shaft. All NV4500 transmissions have a 12.375” case length. (For more information on New Venture transmissions, order instruction manual NV001)
Forum response post
Originally posted by Neo I am interested in replacing my 92 YJ AX15 with an NV4500, but am uncertain which years and models of the GMC and Dodge vehicles came with them. Also, if anyone has any advice on this swap out, that would be greatly appreciated. So far, simply have the SYE and D44 in the rear with a slightly modified (Clifford Cam, Header, Loads of head work, blah blah) mill pushing things. Advice on things like clutch, bellhousing and linkage would be great. Thanks!
Do as much research as you can before you start the swap. Check out AA and Novak for adapters. AA has install instructions with diagrams that should help with the swap. I used a stock TJ clutch on mine. You'll probably need a CJ 4cyl slave from 4wheelparts or someone else, plus the stainless line and fittings to attach it to the master. I replaced the slave pushrod with some allthread and a couple of jam nuts. You'll need to get at least 1" of travel from the slave to full dissengage the clutch. Not sure what you'll have to do about the YJ tcase shifter. You'll probably have to modify your skid also. I used the bellhousing and tcase adapter housing from AA.
B.) The NV4500 makes driving your Jeep like driving a bread truck. I've had it in mine over a year now. You'll never break it, and the lower gears really makes the crawl ratio nice. The 5th gear is alittle higher than the ax5 so you lose some overdrive power on the hills. You either need to do a body lift, trim the tub, or lower the t case. I have mine shoehorned between a customer skid and the tub and I need to move my body up to kill some of the noise. It makes me sound like I'm about to throw a rod from the inside, outside the vehicle sounds like a diesel from the 'clack clack clack' of the tranny. They are not called 'box of rocks' for nothing.
C.) The only problem I ran into was that I didnt like the way AA wanted me to make a tranny mount. so I made my own up and it seems to be working fine. I would take your time and follow the many instruction sheets that come with it. Little hint on getting the pilot bushing out..drill two holes and thread them..then use a steering wheel puller. Seems to work the best from what people say. I used that trick and it was piece of cake.
D.) I just got done with the install of an NV4500 with the 6.34 1st gear and an Atlas II 4.3 with the heavy duty front out put and the Currie Crawler custom drilled case, along with Tom Woods drive shafts with the new Rock and Roll front sleeve, and a few other things. The tranny is sweet. I modified the stock console so that I could reuse it and had to modify the skid plate so that it would clear and I do have a one inch body lift wich I would say is more then mandatory. There is a great write up along with pics at http://www.off-road.com/jeep/reviews/yj1-nv45001.htm that I found when researching all of the options. The gears are very close to a stock wrangler five speed minus the granny low 1st gear so the thing goes great on the street.
E.)However, for the current build I wanted a deeper first gear and a more stout transmission in general because it was going in front of a doubler t-case and larger hardware all around. So I went with the 4500, and it's pretty friggin big. Had to cut and rearrange a lot of stuff to make it fit but it ended up OK, and the advance adapters stuff to make it fit is all high-quality and worked perfectly. It also has a large overdrive so you can run really nice axle gearing and still have decent highway RPM's.
For the AX-5
Advance Adpaters parts: 42 Stainless Hose w/TJ fittings- 716130TJH, NV4500 Pilot Bearing - 716167, 23 spline input shaft for the Transfer case to fit to the AX15(or NV3550) - 716054 Tri-County 4x4:Inertia Ring Autozone:84' Camaro 4cylinder 5 speed clutch disc - CP4198, TJ throw out bearing(I used a 95' TJ TO bearing), front and rear shaft seals for the transmission and the transfer case as well as a rear seal for the motor. Since you already have all this stuff apart you might as well replace all your seals. I didn't replace all mine and now i have a leak from the rear output shaft on my tranny. You will need a 98' Dodge Dakota 2.5L Bellhousing (Junkyard) Approx. $90-$150)
Since you are working on a 00' model Jeep. you should be able to re-use your external slave cylinder and pressure plate. You will want to go ahead and replace your throw out bearing if yours is not fairly new.
The last things you will need is to shorten your driveshaft approx. 2" at your local driveline shop and modify your cross member to accept the new transmission mount.
OH yea, you will need to get the Transfercase shifter from a AX15 to fit up your AX15/NP231 combo because the original shifter linkage off your old tranny will not fit any longer.
Literally the hardest part I found in the whole project was taking apart the Transfercase and replacing the 21 spline input shaft with the 23 spline input shaft. It wasn't extremely difficult and if you are remotely mechanically inclined you can do it. The worst part is getting the retainer clip off the 21 spline input shaft.
If you havent already you should consider putting Tri County Gear's Inertia ring in there. It bolts on to the back of the flywheel. Helps a lot out crawling around.
The depth of the bellhousings are different. Therefore the internal slave needs a spacer behind it to make up the difference. I will get dimensions shortly. I have had the tranny in twice. I went to bleed the clutch and the slave over extends and pops apart. I am not sure about an external setup, i think it will need a spacer as well.
The stock ax5 with slave have 2.25" from the bellhousing surface to the face of the bearing. The ax15 and dakota bell has 2.8" so roughly a 3/8" spacer should work. I made a spacer and will try it again as soon as help arrives to put the tranny back in. Thats the only problem i have ran into. The pilot and clutch fit nicely and everything slide right in.
For the BA:
Manual Steering Gear Box
Consider 15 x 8 rims with a 2" spring lift kit and a 2" body lift with 31 x 10.5 tires
Saw a nice looking setup with 31 x 10.5 tires
Axle to fender distance = 22" rear and
|Dimension||Stock Tire - 235/75R15||31x11.50R15||32x11.50R15||33x12.50R15||35x12.50R15|
|Section Width:||9.25 in 235 mm||11.49 in 292 mm||11.49 in 292 mm||12.51 in 318 mm||12.51 in 318 mm|
|Overall Diameter:||28.87 in 733.29 mm||31.09 in 789.68 mm||32.01 in 813.05 mm||32.52 in 826.00 mm||35.03 in 889.76 mm|
|Rim Width Range:||6 - 8.5 in||8 - 10 in||8 - 10 in||8.5 - 11 in||8.5 - 11 in|
|Sidewall Height:||6.93 in 176.02 mm||8.04 in 204.21 mm||8.50 in 215.9 mm||8.76 in 222.50 mm||10.0 in 254 mm|
|Radius||14.43 in 366.52 mm||15.54 in 394.71 mm||16.00 in 406.4 mm||16.26 in 413.00 mm||17.51 in 444.75 mm|
|Revs per Mile:||720.4||669.0||649.7||639.6||593.7|
|Actual Speed:||60 mph 100 km/h||55.7 mph 92.8 km/h||54.1 mph 90.1 km/h||53.2 mph 88.7 km/h||49.4 mph 82.4 km/h|
|Speedometer Difference:||7.683% too slow||10.88% too slow||12.63% too slow||21.34% too slow|
Backspacing rims to provide more space for wider wheel.
MICKEY THOMPSON BAJA CLAW
New emergency brake assembley
Look into replacing the drive shafts. There is one where the NP231 transfer case gets a Yoke on both drives and the slip in the rear drive shaft is like the stock front drive shaft. The shaft slips in the middle instead of into the transfer case. It is also beneficial if you lift the Jeep. The custom shaft wont slip out of the transfer case if your axle moves too far down because of the lift.
This first link is a complete kit for about $600
$700 to do the tub and the skid plate Red, need to order 2-3 weeks in advance for colors.
Can also do the frame but you need to plug the holes or tap them out.
rear bumper with hitch
Mountain Off-Road Enterprises (M.O.R.E.)
Rusty's Off Road products
All Jeep Parts e-bay store
Cargo Hitch mount racks
Removing vaccum from transfer case
From Wrangler Forum
1. jack up right frt. tire and place on jack stand (easier if not done on a day that snow is not packed on your jeep...lol)
2. unplug vacuum lines from the shift motor actuator and cap off you will not need them any more .
3.remove the four bolts holding shift motor on and remove it (don't forget to have a pan or towel on the floor to catch the very amount of lube that will come out)
4.now look at the axle see how the collar slides over to connect the two axle's together? you might have to turn the right tire a little as you use your finger to slide it to left all the way as the splines line up now your frt. diff is locked into fwd. ( that's a good thing for a jeep)
5.now take apart the shift motor.take a marker and put a dot on one side of the fork and a dot on the matching side of the housing so you will remember what way the fork faces( trust me it saves time..lol) remove the two e-clips holding the shift fork shaft in place and pull shaft out. discard everything but the shaft,fork and big e-clip
6.now put the shaft with the fork back in the housing (no e-clip yet) and move the fork all the way to the right that is where it is when the 4wd is locked in ( remember the collar you slide to the left to lock the axle's together?)
7. now get a spring or fuel line (like i did) and cut it to take up the space on the shaft so that the fork can not move to the right ( and yes the spring or hose needs to fit over the shaft and I am sorry i did not measure the length or i.d for ya but heck you need to do a little of the work yourself) tip: if you use a piece of hose it needs to be fuel and oil resistant ( mine has been set this way for two years)
8.after you get the spacer cut right put in the e-clip so the shaft won't come out.
9. reinstall on the diff. using a little gasket sealer or a new gasket and your almost done. top off the lube if you feel like the little bit that came out is a bad thing.
10. you are now done and have a much improved 4wd set up. you will not notice a drop in mpg, no change in handling ( transfer case disconnects the frt. drive). what you will feel is a good feeling knowing your frt. axle really is locked in when it's needed ( yep even when it is -7 degree's like it is here to day)
Kit for changing vacuum to manual shifting
Axle shift cover
Part number: 8350 0195
May be able to get a new shift cover at
-NAPA 9ft Locking Cable, part 731-1104 -1/4" Compression Union -5/8"x2-3/4" Compression Spring -Zip Ties -Piece of Metal 2"x3" roughly -Rivets or Screws -Gasket Maker
I ended up getting a 1/4" to 1/8" compression fitting at Lowes in the plumbing section. The tap came from NAPA part # t 301 or t 801 1/8" pipe tap. Just make sure it is a pipe tap if you are using a pipe fitting they are tapered like the fitting, and are finer threaded.
You can buy an iron version of the fork separately. The OEM one is aluminum.
Towing capacity is less than 2,000 lbs.
Payload is around 1000 lbs.
First try the fuel filter
Then try changing the throttle position sensor if your jeep sputters.
Spring Over Axle (SOA)
A guy (corey?) over by pro-rental runs an auto repair shop and has done a good job of a spring over axle jeep conversion before. He is the shope right at the light where the intersection is a "T".
I think a recipe for a nice daily driver / weekend wheeler YJ would be this:
2 1/2" suspension lift. Rancho 9000 adjustable shocks, 31" tires.
A guy put a TDI diesel into his 1977 Jeep CJ-7
several pictures and a video can be seen at
Below is an article about a company selling TDI diesel install kits
A company web page selling TDI install kits for jeeps
Buy a Jeep Wrangler YJ from 1985-1997 and use the kit Stage 1 DIY Package: $2599
Still need to buy a TDI diesel engine
may be able to get the TDi diesel engine from
for example Part # Description Year Liters Code $ Price GV N10584 New Volkswagen Jetta engine, TDI diesel, Long Block, w/ timing components & water pump. 038100020PD3600 03-05 1.9 ATD, BEW 4,799.00