TF Project JeV 1989
Builds by others
CRx (1989-1991) Honda CRX/del sol
VWs
GEO tracker
* Ground clearance: 7.9 in. * Curb weight: 2238 lbs. * Wheel base: 86.6 in.
http://eastidaho.craigslist.org/cto/2378173601.html
Toyota MR2 (1985-1989)
http://www.amphibike.org/index.cgi?page=pages/3_wheels/mr2
Electric Power plants
Electric conversion kit
ReVCon
http://www.revconversions.com/electric_vehicle_conversion_products-jeep.htm
REVConversions is the only conversion company that has been able to successfully convert 4-wheel drive all-electric Jeep Wranglers that function and shift properly in every gear in both high & low range driving modes.
The first Wrangler conversion that was made for the Jeep Tour Industry retains the automatic transmission. The 160-volt drive system (twenty 8-volt batteries) drives a Warp-11 DC motor with our own proprietary forced-air cooling system.
The first Wrangler conversion kits are available for immediate delivery.
For Pricing and to Order: Contact Us
Verde Sustainable Energy, Inc.
Ian Wickson (President)
Bruce Berkson (General Manager)
Phil Brown (Production Manager)
250 Cherry St., Suite B
Cottonwood, AZ 86326
Office: (928) 282-0101
Cell: (928) 254-0196
Fax: (928) 649-0102
Email Us: phil@revconversions.com
CANEV
http://www.canev.com/KitsComp/Universal%20Kit/universal%20kit.htm
Motors & Controllers
Warp -11
The 160-volt drive system (twenty 8-volt batteries) drives a Warp-11 DC motor.
20 batteries => Try the US battery 8VGC-XC (Length : 10-1/4” (260mm) Width : 7-1/8” (181mm) Height : 11-1/4” (286mm) )$150 each => $3000; change after 650 cycles; assuming about 80 miles/charge => 650 * 80 < 52,000 miles => 17 miles/$
If 30 mpg * 1g/$4 = 7.5 miles/$
Cost of electricity to charge batteries at $0.1 per kWh (in idaho its 7 cents)
kWh = 10^3 Watt * hrs = 3.6 \times 10^6 Joules = 3.6 \times 10^6 Coul * Volts
130 Amp*hrs = 469,000 Coul
160 Volt * 469,000 Coul = 7.5 \times 10^7 Coul * Volt = 1 cycle of charge
cost per charge = $0.1 * 3.6 \times 10^6 / 7.5 \times 10^7 = $0.005 ??? too cheap must be mistake somewhere
$2,673.75
http://www.revoltevc.com/motors/warp11.html
TransWarp-11
$3,105.00
http://www.revoltevc.com/motors/transwarp-10.html
(72 Volts*453 Amps= 33 kWatts =43.7 HP of power ; using 18, 8 Volt batteries => 227 Amps)
$2,175.00 controller http://www.revoltevc.com/controllers/netgain-controlls-warp-drive-dc-controller.html
$145.00 gas pedal http://www.revoltevc.com/controllers/netgain-controls-hepa.html
$300.00 liquid coolant system http://www.revoltevc.com/controllers/netgain-controls-liquid-cooling-kit.html
DC-9
The advance DC-9 that was used in this application is about $1550. The only alternative to that motor is the Netgain WarP-9 which is $1675.00. The Curtice controller is about $1500. There are others but not really sure about prices and specs. There are very few that can handle the high voltage and current that an EV conversion has. There is one controller that is the Rolls Royce of controllers Called the Zilla2000 with Hairball interface. These monsters can handle far more current and voltage than the Curtice can, it can also be programed to function on a given curve and limit the maximum current that it will allow through it. This controller is around $6000 with the interface. There really isn't a cheap way to do it so the thing will be drivable and reliable.
Zilla
Zilla motor controllers. He has an electric 914 that has 800ftlbs of torque at zero RPM
Soliton1
http://www.evolveelectrics.com/Soliton1.html
Batteries
Typically it takes 15-20 lbs of lead to achieve 1 mile in range. A Rule of Thumb is that 1/3 of the EVs weight should be batteries; the other 2/3 represents dead weight (i.e. frame, suspension, body, motor, etc).
If you want to have 1/3 to 1/2 of the finished weight in fuel; then the initial curb weight of the vehicle should be less than 3000 lbs. The 1991 Jeep Wrangler Renegade (YJ) has a gross vehicle weight of 3090 lbs to 4700 lbs.
http://www.acterra.org/ev/files/batteries_1.html
Try the US battery 8VGC-XC $155
EV racing
http://www.plasmaboyracing.com/
http://www.thecoreiv.com/products/25.html?Itemid=15
Background
The Jeep Wrangler YJ was introduced in 1987. In 1988 some minor changes were made including the way the upper half doors attached to the lower half doors. Little changed for Wrangler YJ jeep parts in model years 1989 and 1990. Starting in 1991, the 4.2 liter in-line 6 cylinder engine was upgraded to the fuel injected 4.0 Liter High Output engine which remained in Jeep Wranglers for the next 15 years. In 1992, the classic roll bar was changed to the more elaborate cage which provided the Jeep Wrangler YJ rear passengers with greater protection. With the exception of minor interior and trim details, Wrangler YJ Jeep parts remained unchanged in model years 1993, 1994 and its final production year 1995.
Components
Light guards
Bumper
Jeep rock crawler rear bumper CJ YJ TJ Wrangler
LED tailights
LED tail light will use less electricity than lumi
Floor plugs
Fenders
Drivers side
https://www.fortec4x4.com/product.php?productid=5024&cat=15&page=1
pasenger side
https://www.fortec4x4.com/product.php?productid=5023&cat=15&page=1
Marker lens
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/product-information.asp?number=56001424
Shifter knob
5 spd knob:
http://www.quadratec.com/products/96117_403.htm
http://www.quadratec.com/jeep-replacement-parts/manual_transmission/shift_knobs.php
seat belts
http://www.jeepbox.com/index.php?cPath=10066_10073_10076
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/shop_parts/seat_belt/jeep/wrangler.html
http://www.seatbeltcity.com/Seat_Belt_Selector
Windshield
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/jeep-windshield-parts/wrangler-yj.htm
Hard Tops
One piece
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/jeep-hard-tops/1piece-wrangler-yj.htm
http://www.quadratec.com/products/11090_0111.htm
2 piece
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/jeep-hard-tops/2piece-wrangler-yj.htm
$2,000
http://www.quadratec.com/products/11090_0102_07.htm
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/installing-bestop-fiberglass-upper-door-sliders-yj-tj-960495/
Installing fiberglass upper half doors
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/installing-bestop-fiberglass-upper-door-sliders-yj-tj-960495/
Soft Tops
Windshield side retainers
http://www.thepartsbin.com/sitemap/jeep~soft_top_hardware~parts.html
Sunrider Soft Top
Carpet
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/jeep-carpets/index.htm?gclid=CLvN6IjB9agCFQo0QgodzwncSQ
Body Mount bushings
Accessories
Hitch
http://www.etrailer.com/hitch-1989_Jeep_YJ.htm
rear bumper with hitch
Vendors
All Jeep Parts e-bay store
http://www.jeepoemparts.com/
http://www.thepartsbin.com/catalog/parts.php?year=4294963356&make_text=1557&model_text=10852
http://www.etrailer.com/vtk-1989_Jeep_YJ.htm
http://www.autotrucktoys.com/jeep/
http://www.jcwhitney.com/jeep-parts-jeep-accessories/j4s2.jcwx?TID=8995449&JCW=1&JCW_SRC=PPC&gclid=COiMrcnC9agCFRRigwod9EfVRw
http://www.4wd.com/
Cargo Hitch mount racks
http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.aspx?partID=60980
http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.aspx?partID=10580
http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.aspx?partID=54149
http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.aspx?partID=54146
http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.aspx?partID=54147
http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.aspx?partID=54148
Removing vaccum from transfer case
Wrangler Forum
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f8/vacuum-shift-motor-inexpensive-fix-87568.html
From Wrangler Forum
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f8/by-passing-frt-diff-4wd-vacuum-78334.html
1. jack up right frt. tire and place on jack stand
(easier if not done on a day that snow is not packed on your jeep...lol)
2. unplug vacuum lines from the shift motor actuator and cap off you will not need them any more .
3.remove the four bolts holding shift motor on and remove it (don't forget to have a pan or towel on the floor to catch the very amount of lube that will come out)
4.now look at the axle see how the collar slides over to connect the two axle's together? you might have to turn the right tire a little as you use your finger to slide it to left all the way as the splines line up now your frt. diff is locked into fwd. ( that's a good thing for a jeep)
5.now take apart the shift motor.take a marker and put a dot on one side of the fork and a dot on the matching side of the housing so you will remember what way the fork faces( trust me it saves time..lol) remove the two e-clips holding the shift fork shaft in place and pull shaft out. discard everything but the shaft,fork and big e-clip
6.now put the shaft with the fork back in the housing (no e-clip yet) and move the fork all the way to the right that is where it is when the 4wd is locked in ( remember the collar you slide to the left to lock the axle's together?)
7. now get a spring or fuel line (like i did) and cut it to take up the space on the shaft so that the fork can not move to the right ( and yes the spring or hose needs to fit over the shaft and I am sorry i did not measure the length or i.d for ya but heck you need to do a little of the work yourself) tip: if you use a piece of hose it needs to be fuel and oil resistant ( mine has been set this way for two years)
8.after you get the spacer cut right put in the e-clip so the shaft won't come out.
9. reinstall on the diff. using a little gasket sealer or a new gasket and your almost done. top off the lube if you feel like the little bit that came out is a bad thing.
10. you are now done and have a much improved 4wd set up. you will not notice a drop in mpg, no change in handling ( transfer case disconnects the frt. drive). what you will feel is a good feeling knowing your frt. axle really is locked in when it's needed ( yep even when it is -7 degree's like it is here to day)